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Make-Up for a Future Generation
(Click on any of the artwork for a larger view)
Reprinted with permission from Airbrush Action (April 2000)

When I felt it was time to take my work as a professional make-up artist to a new level, I decided to explore a new medium. Airbrushed make-up was naturally the next step for me, so I began by researching the different options available.

Becoming familiar with your airbrush equipment and supplies is a key part of the process. I chose the Iwata HP-B professional airbrush gun because of its range ability–it has a direct spray that enables me to create fine lines, work closer to the more delicate eye area, maintain my ability to blend colors, and reach a broader surface. The Air Medea Silent Compressor is a perfect companion for the Iwata HP-B professional airbrush gun, because it sprays up to 35 psi and is equipped with automatic shut-off, prolonging the life of the compressor.

For color, I selected Temptu Pro. Temptu is the creator of temporary tattoos, with twenty years of experience in the business. I was excited to discover Pro because these cosmetics have been developed to ensure durability, safety, and wearability in all conditions. Temptu Pro offers two formulas: original and airbrush. FDA-approved and non-comedogenic, both formulas come in Dura (water proof), and Aqua (water resistant), with a range of skin and hair tones. F/X, primary, stipple, and shimmer tones are also available. Temptu Pro also offers a variety other supplies and accessories to assist the creative and professional appetite.

Before applying make-up to a face, you'll want to practice freehand on another surface. Start by spraying about three inches from the surface. Then adjust your distance. The closer you spray to the surface, the finer the line becomes. For wider or larger lines, hold the gun approximately 1/4- to 1/2-inch from the surface. If you are working with a double-action gun, be sure to press down for air and gradually pull back for paint. Pulling back increases the amount of paint coming from the reservoir and will affect the width of the spray. Turn the air on first to avoid "spitting," which occurs when the paint is on, the air is off, and the leveler is pulled back, but not depressed. It also happens when the leveler is released suddenly, rather than gradually.

Cleaning your airbrush between color changes is very important. For quick cleaning during an application, I release excess color from the reservoir and add Temptu Pro Dura Activator/Remover. I use a Q-tip cotton swab to clean the inside edges of the air brush cup and release the color. Dismantling and cleaning all of the parts between applications will prevent clogging and premature replacement of parts.

Now that we're a bit more familiar with equipment and supplies, we're ready to get started! Begin with a cleansed and moisturized face. This enables you to see the true skin tone and helps you determine what you will want to create, correct, conceal, or highlight. If heavy concealing is required, you might want to do that first with the proper color. If you have a lot of blemishes to conceal, I recom-mend using a color that is one shade lighter than the foundation. Mix in a little of the Temptu Dura or Original Formula #102, which is a red neutralizer. Color #102 is great for toning down the red and altering skin tone shades.

One amazing aspect of airbrushing make-up is that you can make the skin any color you want. However, I still recommend matching the skin tone when creating an everyday make-up. If you need to mix skin tone colors to create the perfect match, you can do this right in the cup of the airbrush.

Start with the predominant skin color in your airbrush cup. Mix in white, tan, or mocha or whatever it takes to get the color you desire. A "back bubbling" technique can be used to mix colors in the airbrush cup. All you need is a paper towel or Kleenex to place over the head of the airbrush gun. Then turn on the air, which flows into the cup of the airbrush and mixes the color.

Once the color is mixed, you can start spraying on the face, keeping the airbrush 4-5 inches from the subject's skin. Be sure to apply foundation with fluid movement of the airbrush. When your movements are fluid, you will be left with foundation that becomes a durable, undetectable veil that is wearable under all conditions.

When airbrushing eyes, you can keep it simple and use one color or work with two or three. With the subject's eyes closed, lift the brow so the skin is taut to make sure the color sprays on evenly. To protect the eye when you're applying color underneath, have the person look up and cover the eye with a card or paper towel. Spray the under-eye area from above, with the head of the airbrush facing down. The color will hit the card or the skin, but not the eye.

If you need to enhance the brow, you can spray a little color on a clean mascara brush and with a light hand, brush the brows. Creating a stencil out of a thin paper stock will give you the brow shape you need.

Freehand flow is important when applying blush, because the tone should be smooth and faded. When applying blush color, start near the hairline and fade out towards the apple of the cheek. Using two tones of color for blush works great with an airbrush application. By working with two complementary colors, you can achieve depth and add color to the cheeks. To create a soft, barely-there blush, you can try mixing the pigments or keeping the airbrush 5-6 inches from the skin for a light, smooth application of color.

To finish the look, mask the outer edges of the lips with Kleenex or create a stencil. I would also recommend turning down the air pressure to 2-3 psi–it's more comfortable for the subject.

Layering color is another technique for lips. For example, apply a true red first and than layer it with an iridescent white. This highlights the lip and adds a beautiful luster to the red you applied. Finish the lip by adding a lip conditioner for moisture.

The result is an everyday make-up that is durable, weightless, flawless, and undetectable, which–for a professional make-up artist–is one of the greatest benefits of airbrushed make-up. The possibilities with airbrushing are endless.

ABOUT THE ARTIST

Creator of the look for major ad campaigns, videos, live shows, and brochures for such products as Ban de Terre, SenScience, and Iso, Alberto Machuca sets trends as a leading New York make-up artist. Named in L'Oreal's Top Ten List, Alberto has worked on the world's most beautiful and intriguing faces, including Kathleen Turner, Ivana Trump, Reese Witherspoon, Mariah Carey, Don Henley, and Natalie Cole. His work has been seen on Rosie O'Donnell, The David Letterman Show, and Vanity Fair magazine and he has been head make-up artist for Versace, Janet Howard, and Elle magazine. He conducts cosmetic workshops for Temptu around the U.S.

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