| In
September of 1933, a pricey, brash upstart of a magazine hit the
newsstands and skyrocketed to instant success.
Copies
of Esquire flew off the racks. Distributors begged for more. One
newsstand sold 2,000 copies in a week. The surging sales silenced
doomsayers who predicted its 50-cent price (five times the normal
magazine cost at the time) was too high. They said a publication devoted
to fashion and leisure and aimed solely at men would flop in the grim
Depression Era market.
Obviously,
though, the magazine offered something readers wanted.
Tucked in those
pages of fiction, fashion, and commentary were also some cartoons that
featured leggy women poured into slinky gowns, usually accompanied by
some short, balding old geezer who was drawn with far less detail than
the women.
George Petty
was paid $25 for his first Esquire cartoon. It's doubtful Petty or David
Smart, a founder and head of Esquire's Chicago editorial offices,
realized they were about to play midwife to the birth of the American
pin-up and spark the rebirth of the airbrush.
The evolution
of the Petty Girl, and later the Varga Girl, in Esquire brought the
airbrush into its heyday.
Petty
and Alberto Vargas became household names, as did their mildly erotic
but coyly innocent images of women. And so did the tool they used.
Before the
Petty Girl began her monthly appearance in Esquire, use of the airbrush
had declined from its earlier peak in the 1920s when fine artists
experimented with it,and it was popular for poster art.
As it did when
it fell from favor among artists and art directors during the 1950s, the
airbrush crept into the background. It survived because of its
utilitarian but pedestrian ability to retouch photographs. People buying
commercial art may not have sought airbrush work, but it was still the
best tool for removing blemishes from photographs.
It's probably
no coincidence that Petty and Vargas, the era's dominant airbrush
artists, were sons of photographers, exposed to the airbrush in their
fathers' studios.
Though Vargas
may be better known today–mainly because of his 18 years with Playboy
that lasted into the 1970s–Petty started it all and achieved the
widest exposure.
"He became
a household name, and the airbrush did too," says Dave Willardson,
who met both artists and has studied the airbrush's history. "I
don't see anybody from that period who has as high a profile using the
airbrush and was associated with it like Petty was."
It
was Petty's airbrush technique that allowed him to achieve the tone and
warmth of skin. He applied thin layers of colors and glazes, a technique
almost unheard of in the 1930s when the airbrush was used mainly to
produce flat, graphic images for commercial artwork.
Petty worked
only in the three primary colors of printing–red, yellow and blue. He
applied them in layers to create all of the other colors of the
painting. Willardson likens it to a printer's color separations. Petty
never used black for shadows or depth.
The rest of his
technique, masking and cutting, was very similar to what artists do
today. The airbrush itself has changed little from the design Charles
Burdick patented in 1893.
Today it's
difficult to imagine the fame and exposure Petty and Vargas generated
from 1933 to Vargas' end with Esquire in 1946. At the time, there was
less competition for the public's attention. There was no television and
certainly no Internet. People relied on radio, print, and movie news
reels for their news, entertainment, and information. Magazines had a
powerful effect on public opinion and taste. Vargas and Petty weren't
the only artists magazines made famous. Norman Rockwell achieved even
more exposure and fame than the two airbrush artists, mainly from his
Saturday Evening Post covers.
Petty and Varga
girls were everywhere. Esquire was a magazine powerhouse. Its
circulation reached 650,000 in December of 1940, and a year later, hit
775,000.
During World
War II, Esquire published hundreds of thousands of copies without
advertising and sent them to servicemen for free. In 1940, a Vargas
calendar for Esquire sold 320,000 mail order copies.
The
magazine promoted the artists like celebrities, using house ads to
herald coming calendars, playing cards, and date books, or just to tout
the artists themselves. It's clear the popularity of the artists helped
circulation. And the more magazines that sold, the more exposure the
artists gained.
Once World War
II started, the gatefolds of Varga and Petty girls were plastered on
barrack walls. Some were copied on the noses of airplanes, including a
Petty painting on the Memphis Belle, the first bomber to finish 25
missions without losing a crew member. Besides publicity from newsreels,
more Americans saw the copy of the painting when the aircraft returned
here to tour the country as a morale boost.
But magazine
exposure was just a springboard. Both artists did advertising work.
Jantzen swimsuits was among the largest clients. There was also Old Gold
cigarettes, Pepsi Cola, war bond and recruiting posters, movie posters,
and beer companies.
Petty's work
was even reproduced on a set of glasses and used as a design for hood
ornaments on Nash automobiles from 1951-54.
He also is the
only airbrush artist to be the subject of a Hollywood movie. In 1950,
Columbia Pictures released The Petty Girl, starring Robert Cummings and
Joan Caufield. It wasn't exactly as successful as Sunset Boulevard and
All About Eve, released the same year, but it still put the airbrush on
the big screen.
It also showed
the impact Petty had on the 1930s and 1940s. He and his creation were
well enough known for General Motors to pay him $5,000 to design a hood
ornament, and movie executives thought his girls were famous enough to
become the title of a film.
Petty and
Vargas weren't the only artists utilizing the airbrush, but the tool's
use was not widespread. Willardson says he's found few examples of
airbrush art in the era's showcase annuals, where commercial artists
display their work. "It wasn't a significant technique," he
says.
What little
airbrush work there was included Disney, where artists used the airbrush
extensively in the classic Fantasia. Some artists in the industry used
it for product illustration. Otis Shephard, the art director for Wrigley
Gum used the airbrush to create simpler images, but they received huge
exposure well into the 1950s.
Petty
and Vargas, however, were the kings, and Petty was the first on the
throne.
At the end of a
three-year program for art appreciation, 3,733 Chicago high school
students ranked Petty as their favorite artist. Others, whose names were
actually on the ballot, included Rembrandt, Monet, and Van Gogh.
At first,
Petty's cartoons were cluttered with those old man and some backgrounds.
The Petty Girl evolved as it became clear that readers were interested
only in the woman. It didn't take long for the backgrounds and the
chrome domed geezer to disappear, leaving just The Petty Girl.
By today's
standards, the paintings aren't exactly packed with high powered sex,
but in those days, women weren't supposed to have nipples. Even hinting
at them (as Petty did in two early paintings) was a scandal. Even the
tame images both artists created drew the government's occasional wrath.
Petty's girls
were rarely nude. One in a swing had to be clothed with a brief gown in
issues being sent through the mail.
The Postal
Service also launched an obscenity lawsuit against Esquire, trying to
revoke its mail privileges. About the only thing in the magazine that
officials pointed to was the Varga Girls.
Petty's pay
soon climbed from the rate of $25 a cartoon. From 1936-9, he got $100 a
page and $1,000 for a 1939 issue that included a gatefold. By 1940, it
was $500 a page. That same year, other artists were getting $20 for a
page and $30 for a gatefold. One other artist got $100 a page and $125
for a gatefold, and Esquire owned his work.
Petty sold only
the first reproduction rights, a deal that let him recycle images. The
1939 gatefold was recycled from a beer ad Petty did in 1937. Even years
after he retired, royalty checks, some five figures, continued to
arrive.
"He always
thought of himself as a businessman," Willardson recalls. "Not
so much as an artist."
Petty's rising
fees and increasing demands, such as taking a few months off or getting
the magazine to pay for a hunting safari in Africa, were beginning to
chafe Esquire's strong-willed Smart.
The tension
increased as Petty sent Smart less-than-finished works with red outlined
images and less done in full color. Though The Petty Girl was the big
gun of his magazine's artwork, Smart was always searching for a
replacement, preferably one more pliant and less expensive.
He
got exactly what he wanted in 1940 when Vargas came looking for work.
The Peruvian artist was down on his luck. A move to the West Coast to
get work with movie studios flopped, but the move had severed any ties
he had to the other coast.
Smart got his
artist at what was almost indentured servant wages, a whole $75 a week.
Since he was an employee, the magazine owned everything Vargas did. And
Smart could order Vargas to paint anything.
That slave wage
made it possible for Smart to publish the 1940 calendar. Instead of
buying individual and probably recycled images from Petty, Esquire
simply had Vargas crank them out as part of his job. At one point,
Vargas was doing 60 paintings a year at the direction of Esquire.
By 1942, Petty
was pretty much out of Esquire's pages and the new kid was in and
heavily promoted by the magazine. Smart did all he could to help his new
king replace the original.
In a move to
replace The Petty Girl with the Varga version, Smart even had Vargas do
a free painting for Jantzen to use in ads promoting a new suntan lotion.
He let the word
out to advertisers, movie executives, and ad agencies that he had a new
artist who would benefit from the magazine's powerful publicity
machinery.
When
Petty donated a painting for the cover of West Point's Pointer magazine,
Smart had Vargas paint one for an issue three months later.
Vargas found
himself creating versions of his girls for make-up, hair products, and a
brewery, in addition to movie posters. At first, he struggled to
duplicate Petty's style with the airbrush, but he had plenty of
opportunity to develop, considering the heavy work load his boss
imposed. By 1943, Vargas had achieved the level of ability he wanted.
Smart even
swiped his artist's name. When Vargas submitted his first painting for
Esquire, Smart suggested dropping the "s" and calling it a
Varga Girl. Vargas, thinking it was no big deal, agreed, essentially
letting Esquire have full ownership of the name he was to make so
famous.
Even after he
parted with Esquire, Vargas couldn't use the name Varga Girl. He sued
Esquire but lost. He had to return to signing his own name to paintings,
though the public thought of them as Varga.
By 1946,
Vargas' relationship with Esquire was in no better shape than Petty's
had been when he left.
For the next
four years, Vargas did little except a deck of playing cards with 53
different Vargas Girls, an output that was less than he produced in 1944
alone.
By 1950, the
sun was setting on the Golden Age of airbrush-ing. Except for rare
reappearances by Petty in Esquire and less sophisticated work that
appeared in True magazine, exposure for both artists was waning.
Other painting
techniques were becoming popular. Illustrators like Austin Briggs, Mark
English, and Jack Potter were wowing art directors with brush work. One
technique included adding soap to acrylic paint to produce bubbles in
the brush stroke.
"These
techniques were new and refreshing," Willardson says. "The
style was very painterly and contemporary. Everybody picked up their
brushes."
Petty and
Vargas didn't completely vanish in the 1950s, though. Petty did work for
the Ice Capades from 1959 through 1964 and returned briefly to Esquire
in 1954. He also did two calendars for Ridge Tool Co. As late as 1959,
Petty's images were licensed to use on boxer shorts.
Vargas, doing
little work since leaving Esquire, was finding his own avenue to show
his art. It would push his name into a new generation.
In 1954, he
hooked up with a new, more sexually adventurous magazine in Chicago. Its
publisher admits that a Petty Girl in a rabbit costume that he saw as a
boy was probably the genesis of the Playboy Bunny.
Vargas took
nude paintings he'd worked on since the late 1930s but never sold and
provided Playboy with a five-page layout of nudes that appeared in the
March 1957 issue.
In 1960, Vargas
became a fixture in Playboy. That 18-year run with Playboy pushed his
name ahead of Petty in modern memory.
"Had Petty
had that into the 1970s, he would have been as high profile as
Vargas," Willardson says.
As he worked
for Playboy, Vargas used the airbrush less, Willardson says. "He
would use the airbrush to kind of retouch his watercolors and smooth
them out."
The popularity
of the airbrush was sinking again by the middle to late 1950s.
Photography was replacing illustrations, and even those were being done
in different techniques. Artists were experimenting with oils and
acrylics, paints that were at the time extremely difficult to run
through an airbrush.
And the
airbrush's two biggest stars of the previous decades were fading. By the
early 1960s, Petty was all but retired. He died in 1975.
Vargas kept
producing for Playboy until 1978, but changing times and attitudes
reduced the fame he achieved with his years at Esquire. Vargas died in
1982, but the Golden Age of airbrushing had died long before that.
"By the
early 1960s, the airbrush was completely obliterated," Willardson
says.
Note: For a
more in depth look at the two champions of the Golden Age, we recommend
two books by Reid Stewart Austin: "Petty" and "Varga."
Both provided extensive background for this article.
Look for our
next installment of "History of the Airbrush" in an upcoming
issue. |