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Step
1
The image is
first drawn with a #4H pencil on Fredrix Belgian Portrait linen. It is
then sprayed with Krylon Workable Fixative to prevent smearing. |
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Step 2
The main
figure is taped with 2-inch masking tape so the background can be
painted.
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Step 3
The main
figure is then carefully cut out, leaving only the background exposed.
It's very important not to cut too deep, or you may find a very
noticeable line in the piece.
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Step 4
I begin the
first step of painting by blocking in solid areas of color with a
paintbrush.
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Step 5
I under paint
darker areas in the foreground, and freehand airbrush the figures in
the background.
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Step 6
Next, I
soften the foreground with thin washes of the ground color.
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Step 7
I continue to
do washes over the entire background until the transition from front
to back looks more thoroughly blended. Also, I add a shadow and
splatter behind rear tire.
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Step 8
After peeling
off the tape, I can start working on the main figure. I begin by
laying in solid areas of color in a medium value.
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Step 9
I isolate
those areas I plan to airbrush next. In this photo, I'm working on the
orange and blue of the helmet and jersey. The letters on the helmet
are covered with tape.
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Step 10
I airbrush
lights and darks over my medium value, and then remove the tape from
the letters.
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Step 11
In this next
step, I mask the helmet, leaving the letters exposed for painting.
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Step 12
Using 77
Spray Adhesive, I attach a mesh material over the lettering on the
helmet. Then, for a nice texture I airbrush my colors through the
mesh. After I peel the tape from the helmet , I do my pinstriping with
a So Loew Cornell liner brush.
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Step 13
The shield is
done with a paintbrush only, because I feel this technique provides
the look and weight I wish to achieve.
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Step 14
I then
isolate another area to be airbrushed. In this photo, it's the white
of the jersey.
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Step 15
After the
jersey is airbrushed, I go back in with a paintbrush to soften the
edges and bring in brighter highlights.
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Step 16
The tape is
removed, and I isolate another area. This is like doing a puzzle, one
piece at a time.
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Step 17
With the
brush, I paint the handlebar pad a solid color, then use the airbrush
for highlights and shadows. The lettering is done last.
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Step 18
The
handlebars are painted with a brush. After that step is complete, I
start laying in solid color to work and blend against.
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Step 19
At this
point, I choose the areas to paint as I go along.
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Step 20
Before I
paint the tires, I use a pencil to dig in the lines on the treads.
This helps me to see where the treads are after I blend the tire.
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Step 21
I continue to
paint solid areas around the piece to serve as under-painting to blend
against.
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Step 22
The engine,
pants, and boots are all blended with a paintbrush. I prefer a more
"painterly" look for these parts.
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Step 23
For the
forks, I isolate the area to be blended to ensure that no paint will
be transferred onto completed sections.
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Step 24
The number
plate is masked off. For the lettering, I once again use my pencil to
dig in, so I can see the letters after the paint has been applied
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Step 25
After the
plate is blended and letters complete, I splatter a little paint with
a toothbrush and then smear it by hand to give the appearance of dirt.
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Step 26
The treads
themselves are isolated with tape and airbrushed.
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Step 27
Last, but not
least, after all of the the tape has been removed, I go over the
entire piece and do touch-ups with a brush. When that process is done,
the painting is complete!
Note:
After I
have completed each section, I varnish it with Liquitex Acrylic Gloss
Medium and Varnish.
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ABOUT
THE ARTIST
1998 Vargas
Award winner Scott Jacobs has garnered acclaim for his photorealistic
paintings of motorcycles and cars. He was Harley Davidson’s first
licensed artist, and he has his own line of official Harley clothing.
He is also licensed by the Chevrolet Motor Company Corvette Division
and Mattel Hot Wheels, and has been the official artist for Sturgis
for the past five consecutive years. Jacobs' work has been featured in
a variety of newspapers and magazines, including the August 1998 issue
of Airbrush Action
TECH FILE
Airbrush:
Iwata CMSB Air Source: Medea Whisper Jet II Paint Media: Liquitex
Acrylic from tubes Surface Media: Fredrix Belgian Portrait linen
Masking: 2-inch masking tape Projector: Kodak 35mm projector Lighting:
Chroma 50 bulbs in double fluorescent Ventilation: Open windows.
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